Cool Paris

Out of Vingtparismagazine
Text : Emily Sands-Bonin

Newly refurbished and opened in late September this year, the Marché de l’Olive has been hailed as very “Baltard” by Bertrand Delanoë, mayor of Paris, an allusion to French 19th century architect Victor Baltard, designer of Les Halles, Paris’ mythical central market. But if Les Halles, destroyed in 1971, has given way to the Forum des Halles, a tacky shopping district located in the heart of Paris, overrun by tourists and nocturnal drug deals, the marché couvert La Chapelle, located far from the beaten path, is alive and well.

The marché couvert La Chapelle, commonly known as the “Marché de l’Olive,” is located in northeast Paris, where épiceries exotiques loaded with plantain bananas brush shoulders with colorful batik cottons, and where, the Mairie of Paris hastens to point out, the “last pockets of insalubrity are disappearing,” as the quartier slowly gentrifies.

The 18ème is vibrant and lively; one can be literally carried along by the late afternoon crowds and the scent of fried food, the stately 19th century Art Nouveau architecture sitting proudly above France’s postcolonial melting pot.
Situated on a little square off the main boulevard, Marx Dormoy, the market is surrounded by cafes and grocers. Through the automatic doors, stately wrought iron arches support a glass pavilion roof, flooding the space with natural light and rendering the piles of fruit and vegetables even more enticing. There were very few people in the market on a weekday afternoon, but the spacious corridors between the stalls can accommodate Saturday morning crowds with ease. Like the surrounding neighborhood, many of the commerçants are North African or Asian. The presence of a Moroccan traiteur with a steaming bowl of couscous reminds us, yet again, of France’s postcolonial plurality.

The Marché de l’Olive is definitely not for vegetarians, or for the faint of heart.  The meat is lustrously displayed; sausages and patés are abundant and the chickens still have plumed heads curling hooked black claws. I saw furry rabbits hanging above a butcher’s stand and, in the corner stand, above a selection of preserves, a stuffed fox looks on, posed next to what appears to be a stuffed crow, gripping a round box of camembert in his beak. The scene evokes the fable by La Fontaine, “The Fox and the Raven.” Flattered by the wily fox, the raven opens his beak to respond and drops his cheese, which the fox snatches up for lunch.

The Marché de l’Olive itself is similar to many a farmers’ market, but it is the newly renovated 19th century hall, as well as the bustling, multicultural quartier surrounding it, that make it part of the contemporary Parisian experience.

Marché de l’Olive – Marché couvert La Chapelle,10 Rue de l’olive, 75018 Paris , Tuesday – Saturday  8h30 -13h / 16h – 19h30, Sunday 8h30-13h, M° Marx Dormoy

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At Boulevard Raspail (6e arr.) they have a fresh market every Tuesday and Friday. But on Sunday the market transforms itself into the best organic market in Paris. In addition to poultry, cider, fruits, vegetables, charcuterie and cheese all labeled “natural” – this elegant market sometimes includes a truffle farmer who sells in the season a basketful of her wintertime harvest.

Boulevard Raspail, between rue du Cherche midi and rue de Rennes, 9 am to 2 pm

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After some years of decline, the Marché St.-Quentin, near the Montmartre Studio-Loft is alive again. The covered market sells all fresh products as bread, vegetables, meat and fish from France. But you can also find specialities of other countries ( Brasil, Libanon, Italy, Portugal, …). The market is open every day except on monday.

Marché St.-Quentin, 84 B, Rue Magenta, 75009 Paris

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Although I’m more fond of London or New York at this time of the year, but you happen to be in Paris,there are plenty things to do and explore;

To get a real Christmas feeling, stroll on one of the Christmas markets all over the city. Most of them are on well know places and can easily be found.

Here are some tips :

Marché de Noël Champs-Elysées open every day from Nov 20 until Dec 28
Also attractions for children, rather crowdy

Marché de Noël à Saint-Germain Nov 28 – Dec 31
Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés,75006 Paris

Le Marché de Noël de la Nation 1-24 Dec
Place de la Nation, 75012 Paris

Marché de Noël de Montparnasse
Here you  find little gadgets and food from over the whole world.
Place Raoul Dautry, 33 avenue du Maine, 75015 Paris

Marché de Noël à la Gare de l’Est every day in Dec
In front of  la Gare de l’Est, 75010 Paris

Marché de Noël de la Place Saint-Sulpice 10-24 Dec – very charming and fun place to go

Marché de Noël Place des Abbesses , every in Dec
Close to the Montmartre Studio Loft
1 place des Abbesses – 75018 Paris

Le marché de Noël de la Gare Saint-Lazare , during Dec
Cour de Rome, 75009 Paris

Marché de Noël – Square Viviani – Quai de Montebello 16 – 20 décembre 2009  11h- 20h
Life concerts, entertainment for children
Square Viviani – Quai de Montebello – next to  Cathédrale Notre-Dame, 75005 Paris

Le village de Noël au Port de Suffren Dec 23 – Jan 3
near the Seine with la Tour Eiffel in sight, 75007 Paris

Les Féeries d’Auteuil 5-20 Dec
Life music, little concerts, entertainment for children and more
40 rue Jean de La Fontaine, 75016 Paris

Le Marché de Noël de la Maison du Limousin , December, on walking distance from the Montmartre Studioloft

30 rue de Caunmartin, 75009 Paris 9ème

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